One block from the square is the Musée Carnavalet (also free), chronicling the history of the capital. It is a treasure-trove for lovers of Paris: paintings, prints, artifacts, displays and re-creations, all housed in two magnificent mansions. There is something here to satisfy the most demanding museum visitor. So take your squirmy kids: the ancient shop signs and gory guillotine stuff will please them. Re-creations of Proust's cork-lined writing room, the apartments of the justly famous letter-writer, Madame de Sévigné, or the art nouveau Fouquet jewelry boutique might be more to your own taste. There is a small, appealing gift shop.

Opéra Bastille, the world's largest opera house, is five minutes away. The startling building was hotly debated when it opened in 1992, but has proved a huge success. Pick up a program and purchase tickets on the spot—operas sell out quickly. (Sold out? If you're a dedicated opera buff, you can face the music standing. Since 2005, a few dozen SR places go on sale forty-five minutes before each performance.) If the performance interests you less than how it is mounted, check out the backstage tour. While you're at the Place de la Bastille, have the kids try to find the utterly charming Cour Damoye, hidden between two eateries just across from the Opéra. You won't find this cobblestone, gated thoroughfare on most tourist itineraries. If the kids succeed, reward them by heading towards rue Saint-Paul to the tiny, newly-opened Niou. The selection of simple, handsome wooden toys and objets are not found elsewhere in France. Then, cross the street to Boulangerie Malineau and treat them to a pain au chocolat-framboises. If it's hot from the oven, you'll be finding a reason to pass this way daily.

The Place des Vosges is best enjoyed without a plan. Walk around the arcades; poke into art galleries, antique and curio shops; buy an Issey Miyake creation. If you're a fan of his designs, just a few blocks from the square are two more Miyake boutiques: Pleats Please (the name says it all), and A-POC ("A Piece of Cloth")—a shop so cool that neither name nor number mar its exterior. For colorful, supple leather shoes sur commande (made-to-order), turn your toes towards SKG. The prices are reasonable and the shoes are both unusual and gorgeous. Then, sporting your original and chic outfit, make heads turn at lunch at the pretty pink and green Guirlande de Julie, or at the well-priced Mark-Annabel de Coconnas. On weekends, enjoy the array of street entertainers—tango dancers, calliope players, jazz bands, accordionists—or just sit on a bench and count your blessings. Here you are, chez vous, in the Place des Vosges!

ADDRESSES

L'Ambrosie 9, place des Vosges

Baracane 38, rue des Tournelles

Chez Marianne 2, rue des Hospitaliéres-St-Gervais

L'As du Falafel 34, rue des Rosiers

Ma Bourgogne 19, place des Vosges

Café Hugo 22, place des Vosges

Richard-Lenoir market boulevard Richard-Lenoir (starting at rue Amelot)

Paul 89, rue Saint-Antoine

Au Pain du Marais 32, Rue de Turenne

Victor Hugo Museum 6, place des Vosges

Hotel de Sully 62, rue Saint-Antoine

Musée Carnavalet 23, rue de Sévigné

Opéra Bastille 120, rue de Lyon

Cour Damoye 12, Place de la Bastille

Niou 11, rue Saint-Paul

Boulangerie Malineau 26, rue Saint-Paul

Issey Miyake 3, place des Vosges

Pleats Please 3 bis, rue des Rosiers

A-POC 47, rue des Francs-Bourgeois

SKG 14, rue des Tournelles

Guirlande de Julie 25, place des Vosges

Mark-Annabel de Coconnas 2 bis, place des Vosges