Both gawking kids and their parents are welcome on the second floor of the ancient Deyrolle, where taxidermists have had their way with—among hundreds of other creatures—elephants, giraffes, pet cats, cocker spaniels and canaries. (All of the stuffed glass-eyed critters on display died of natural causes, so no need to reprimand the staff!) This famous shop has expanded and now sends shipments of bugs and butterflies to New York's Bergdorf Goodman.

If the kids would rather catch a matinee, La Pagode, Paris's most eccentric movie theatre, is the place to go. This authentically reproduced building reflects the trend in the capital, near the end of the 19th century, for all things Oriental. The two-screen theatre re-opened after an extensive update: It now has the most comfortable movie-house seats in Paris and plays first run films—sometimes with your name in the title. I thoroughly enjoyed Woody Allen's Melinda and Melinda.

Parisians, not just tourists, keep flocking to two ever-cool eateries near Bon Marché. L'Epi Dupin continues to get raves for inventive food at good prices and Le Bamboche—a bit more costly—still serves up full-flavored dishes from another noted chef. (A casual meal can be had next door at the brand-new Sous le Cedre, where the young Lebanese owner generously dishes up tasty homemade eggplant caviar, fallalel, sharwarma and his daily special.)

neigh_13.jpgTables fill quickly at the 100-year-old Au Pied de Fouet, and at the newer Au Babylone, both no-frills traditional-style eateries. Le Petit Lutétia, opened in 191 Neighborhoods - Bon March 2 in marche2.html6, still satisfies the elevated standards, both for food and pretty brasserie décor, of my Paris-born French teacher. Bright tastes, intriguing combinations, and stunning Art-Deco surroundings distinguish Le Paris in the Hotel Lutétia. And the two-star southwest cooking of Hélène Darroze is on every foodie's list of must-try, hang-the-expense experiences. (Her less-expensive Le Salon d'Hélène is one floor below.) Lines form twice daily for the upscale counter service at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon. One of Paris's best-known and respected chefs, M. Robuchon takes reservations only for 11:30AM and 6:30PM but that keeps no one away from his beautiful inventive food. Across the street, another renowned chef, Pierre Gagnaire, recently opened Gaya. The bistro is garnering fine reviews, but I'm afraid I can't contribute; the unappealing décor squelched my appetite.

What are all those charming French people saying to each other? Enroll for a short course at the Alliance Française and begin to understand what everybody is talking about. Return home cultured, well fed, and babbling in French; what more could you ask from your stay in the neighborhood we call Bon Marché?


ADDRESSES

Chez Dumonet 117, rue du Cherche-Midi

Hotel Matignon 57, rue de Varenne

Au Bon Marché 38, rue de Sèvres

La Grande Epicerie, store #2 (Au Bon Marché)

KIT 67, rue du Cherche-Midi

Conran 117, rue du Bac

Poilane 8, rue de Cherche-Midi

La Cuisine de Bar 8, rue de Cherche-Midi

QuatreHomme 62, rue de Sèvres

Le Marché Biologique boulevard Raspail at rue des Rennes

Tea and Tattered Pages 24, rue Mayet

Mamie Gateaux 66, rue de Cherche-Midi

FNAC 136, rue des Rennes

Musée Hébert 85, rue du Cherche-Midi

Musée Rodin 77, rue de Varenne

Fondation Dubuffet 137, rue de Sèvres

Les Catacombes place Denfert-Rochereau

Deyrolle 46, rue du Bac

La Pagode 57 bis, rue de Babylone

L'Epi Dupin 11, rue Dupin

Le Bamboche 15, rue de Babylone

Sous Le Cedre 15, rue de Babylone

Au Pied de Fouet 45, rue de Babylone

Au Babylone 13, rue de Babylone

Le Petit Lutétia 107, rue de Sèvres

Le Paris Hotel Lutétia, 45, boulevard Raspail

Hélène Darroze 4, rue d'Assas

Le Salon d'Hélène 4, rue d'Assas

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon 5, rue de Montalembert

Gaya 44, rue du Bac

Alliance Française 101, boulevard Raspail